Wine & Dine

Paul Gregutt
Wine adviser
Q. I wonder if you could answer a borderline etiquette question regarding corkage fees. I made reservations for 10 at a new restaurant that had not yet obtained a liquor license. I asked if we could bring in our own wine since they could not sell us any. They told me no problem. When our bill arrived we were charged a corkage fee of $12 per bottle for the 8 bottles of wine that we brought. The waiter did provide wine glasses, open the bottles and pour some of the wine.
I completely understand the fees when you bring in a bottle to an establishment that has its own offerings, because you are taking away from profits they would normally receive. But it is my feeling that a $96 corkage fee is out of line when they do not disclose the fee in advance and do not sell the product themselves. Is there any standard in this situation?
A. Unfortunately, there are no clear rules or standards, and every restaurant has its own set of guidelines. In this instance, the restaurant certainly should have informed you about the corkage charge. On the other hand, it sounds as if you did not specifically ask if there would be such a charge.
It is always best to ask questions in advance, get the name of the person who gives you the answers, and confirm them once again when you arrive. Since that was not done, it is the restaurant’s right to charge you as they did. You do not say whether you asked them to reduce the charges. If you did, and they refused, I would make it clear to the owner that you won’t be coming back.

By Paul Gregutt
Wine adviser

Q: I have been drinking white wines (white zin, Champagne, rieslings) for a long time. I would like to start trying red wines, but I don’t know where to start. I know I do not like cabernets.

A: The switch from white to red can be done more easily if you don’t jump immediately into the biggest, densest, most tannic reds, which would certainly include cabernet sauvignon. Please don’t write off cabs completely just yet, but work your way into them by starting with young, fruit-forward red wines from less-tannic grapes.

The white zins and rieslings you already enjoy are probably fairly sweet, so the first adjustment you must make is to the dryness of reds. The tannins will accentuate that dryness, so look for softer red wines such as pinot noir from California’s Central Coast, some of the less-expensive Spanish reds from Jumilla, and lighter southern Italian reds. Be sure to enjoy them with meals, which will also bring out their richness and help you adjust to the different flavors that red wines offer.

Paul Gregutt
Wine adviser
Q. My question is on Vintage Charts. Robert Parker makes one as does Wine Spectator and Wine Enthusiast. Though they all cover Washington wines (almost like an afterthought), there doesn’t seem to be any consistency. Which one of the vintage charts do you think is the most accurate for Washington wines?
A. Since I am the writer responsible for the Washington vintage chart published by Wine Enthusiast magazine, I will not make a judgment regarding the accuracy of the other two you mention. What I can say is that you have pointed out an important fact, which is that vintage charts for emerging New World regions, of which Washington and Oregon are prime examples, are highly variable and subjective. In my opinion, they are all of minimal value. Vintage evaluations mostly are weather reports, and the ratings numbers assigned to the vintage quality are usually based on premature tastings of unfinished wines. The actual quality of a specific wine is far more likely to reflect the talent of the winemaker and his or her vineyard sources.

Paul Gregutt
Wine adviser

Q. What’s the difference (if any) between syrah and petite sirah?
A.  Big difference. Syrah (also called shiraz) is a peppery red wine grape that provides the core of most great wines from the Rhone Valley of France. It’s widely grown in Australia and has also made a name for itself in California and Washington.
Petite sirah (sometimes confusingly spelled petite syrah) is another name for durif, which is a French cross between syrah and peloursin. Petite sirah is quite popular in California, where it produces dark, tannic, somewhat rustic red wines. Among the top producers are Peachy Canyon, Ursa, La Filice, Eaglepoint Ranch, Parducci and Concannon.

Paul Gregutt
Wine adviser

Q.  Can you please offer some advice about how to approach the wines at big wine tasting events? It seems challenging, some would suggest impossible, to give the wines due consideration in such a setting.
A. You ask an excellent question. With Taste Washington being held in Seattle April 5-6 and a host of other major events coming this spring, I imagine a lot of consumers are wondering how to organize their time.
Typically there are hundreds of wines being poured. Even professional tasters, who spit carefully, have palate fatigue after 25 or 30 wines. Consumers with less experience and less willingness to spit will need to do some advance planning in order to maximize the value that these tastings offer. Remember, it’s not about the number of wines you taste. What is important is tasting the right wines, paying attention, and building your personal wine database.
You need to have a plan. Take a few minutes to think about your personal goals. What grapes interest you? What vineyards? What types of wine? Do you want to explore new wineries or new varietals? Or maybe taste every syrah you can find?
Study the program for a minute or two, and think about how you can take away some solid information to build your own knowledge. Focus on at least a dozen, maybe 15 or 20 wines that fit the topic you have chosen. After that, if you still have the energy, explore at random and have a good time — spitting carefully of course.

Paul Gregutt
Wine adviser

Q. You have frequently covered the correct retention methods for opened bottles of table wines. What should be the procedures and life expectancy of those fortified wines we tend to retain forever, such as port, sherry and vermouth?
A. Let’s focus on port wines first. Because ports contain distilled spirits (brandy), they are not subject to the type of disintegration as ordinary, unfortified wines. However, only vintage ports from Portugal should be cellar-aged and can be expected to improve over time. A recent tasting of vintage and late bottled vintage ports, conducted by port expert Roy Hersh, showed that wines from the 1977, 1983 and 1985 vintages were now drinking quite well, but in no danger of moving quickly past their peak.
Tawny ports and other, non-vintage styles are generally meant to be consumed within a few years of bottling. Once opened, they should be stored in the bottle in a cool, dark cupboard — not in a decanter — and they will keep for up to a month. I have much less experience with sherry wines of Jerez, but again there is a wide range of styles. The light, dry, salty styles should be consumed like any white wine. The dark, sweet, dessert sherries may hold well in the bottle for a week or two after being opened.
You are on your own with vermouth — it is not something I am familiar with.

Paul Gregutt
Wine adviser

Q. I received a bottle of Chateau Ste. Michelle 2005 Cinsault as a gift. Is this a red or a white wine? Could you describe it for me?
A. This is an unusual red grape rarely bottled as a varietal wine in Washington. It is originally a southern French variety, primarily used in blended wines from the Languedoc and smaller regional appellations.
Here in Washington there are small plantings at Morrison Lane, Minnick Hills, Wallula, Stone Tree, Airfield Estates and Alder Ridge. I’ve tasted varietal versions from Syncline, Morrison Lane and one or two others. I suspect that your wine was originally offered to Ste. Michelle wine club members. I would expect it to be light, spicy/peppery and ready to drink. It should make a good pizza wine.

Paul Gregutt
Wine adviser
Q. I am contacting you in order to ask if you remember an article you had previously written explaining how to conduct a private collection wine sale (outlining correct procedures/forms in accordance with Washington State Liquor Board). It was well written, in a clear, concise manner, and I have been trying to locate this article to no avail. Thank you for your consideration.
A. To get an update, I contacted the WSLCB and got this helpful reply. I believe this is the information you are looking for.
Here’s the Washington State Liquor Control Board Accommodatino Sale Process:
1. The seller of the alcoholic beverages finds a buyer. The seller cannot be a liquor licensee.
2. The seller and buyer agree upon a price.
3. The buyer writes a cover letter explaining the transaction, listing how much alcoholic beverages is to be purchased and for what cost. The buyer must state that the product has been inspected and is satisfied with the quality. The letter must also include the seller’s Social
Security number (needed to process the check).
4. The buyer sends the cover letter along with a check for the agreed upon price to Liquor Purchasing, Washington State Liquor Control Board, P.O. Box 43096, Olympia, WA 98504-3096.
5. A fee of $25 or 1 percent, whichever is greater, will be deducted from the check and the Liquor Control Board will send the remainder of the payment to the seller.
6. Once the seller receives the check from the Liquor Control Board, the seller can release the alcoholic beverages to the buyer.
7. The alcoholic beverages can only be sold and bought in Washington state.
8. There is no limit on the quantity.
For further questions on the process, please contact Meagan Renick at 360-664-1759.

Paul Gregutt
Wine adviser 

    Q. On Christmas eve my husband was uncorking a nice bottle of cabernet. As he took the cork out the wine exploded up all over the ceiling and cupboards. This has never happened to us before and we were wondering what would cause this as we had just purchased an entire case of this wine.
A. Exploding cabernet you say! That’s not the sort of holiday surprise you were hoping for, I’m sure. I hope that no actual explosion (of glass) occurred. It sounds from your note as if the wine exploded out of the top, much as a bottle of bubbly will do if it is shaken up, rather than the actual bottle itself.
If this was a bottle of still red wine, as I assume it was, the only explanation I can come up with is that it underwent an accidental refermentation in the bottle. This would cause a buildup of carbon dioxide and would unleash an explosion of wine when the cork was pulled. It’s not out of the question, if that is in fact what happened, that the rest of the bottles in your case of wine could be subject to the same problem. Worse yet, if the refermentation continues, the actual glass could explode, and that could be dangerous. I would suggest you return the wines to the shop where they were purchased and ask for a refund. In any event, be very careful when handling them until the actual cause of the problem has been determined.

By Paul Gregutt
Wine adviser

Q. Thanks for your great articles about Washington state wine growing regions. I am seeking a list of the 500 or so wineries for educational purposes and hoping you could tell me if there is a Web site or resource available?
A. The Washington Wine Commission Web site (www.washingtonwine.org) is a good, quick resource for listings of wineries, itineraries for winery touring, upcoming wine tasting events and detailed information about Washington appellations. The commission also puts out an advertiser-sponsored brochure listing member wineries and providing tasting room hours, addresses, phone numbers and Web sites, along with more general background information.
The brochure is being updated and the newest edition should be out in the next few days. It may be found in many winery tasting rooms or picked up at the commission’s Seattle offices, 1000 Second Ave. Suite 1700, or obtained by calling 206-667-9463. They will also mail one to you if you send a request to info@washingtonwine.org. Best of all, the brochure is free.