Wine & Dine

Paul Gregutt
Wine adviser

Q. I received a bottle of Chateau Ste. Michelle 2005 Cinsault as a gift. Is this a red or a white wine? Could you describe it for me?
A. This is an unusual red grape rarely bottled as a varietal wine in Washington. It is originally a southern French variety, primarily used in blended wines from the Languedoc and smaller regional appellations.
Here in Washington there are small plantings at Morrison Lane, Minnick Hills, Wallula, Stone Tree, Airfield Estates and Alder Ridge. I’ve tasted varietal versions from Syncline, Morrison Lane and one or two others. I suspect that your wine was originally offered to Ste. Michelle wine club members. I would expect it to be light, spicy/peppery and ready to drink. It should make a good pizza wine.

By Paul Gregutt
Wine adviser

The Loire Valley of France, though best known for its book-end white wines  — Muscadet in the far west, Sancerre in the east — offers a selection as varied and appealing as any region in the world.
From sparkling wines called “Fines Bulles” (fine bubbles) to dry, off-dry and sweet white wines; from bright rosés to delicate pinots to tannic, earthy, cabernet-based reds that can age for decades — the Loire is a treasure trove for wine lovers. Yet it remains largely unknown to Americans.
At this year’s Salon des Vins de Loire, which I was pleased to attend, over 600 exhibitors poured wines from every corner of the region. With so many wines, and so little time (hmmm … could be a song lyric there), I set out to explore some of the lesser-known appellations whose wines meet the highest standards at refreshingly modest prices.
Which is not to say that I ignored Muscadet and Sancerre, two of my longtime favorites. Muscadet — bone dry, racy and thrilling — is touted as the ideal wine for summer. In truth, it is the quintessential wine for oysters, and since now is prime oyster time, why wait? Look for Muscadet de Sevre et Maine, the best, and don’t fret about vintage. Good Muscadet can be enjoyed immediately, yet aged almost indefinitely.
Domaines Landron is an excellent producer previously unknown to me. I tasted multiple vintages of their “Fief du Breil” bottling dating back to 1993, which could easily pass for an older Meursault. Other Muscadets to look for include Clos Saint Vincent des Rongères 2005 Vieilles Vignes ($10) and Domaine Michel David 2006 Clos du Ferré ($11).
Quick visits and tastings at two iconic Sancerre producers turned up unsuspected treasures. At Domaine Henri Bourgeois the single vineyard “Le MD” (Monts Damnés), Sancerre was, as expected, immaculate and complex. Happily, the 2006 is in town and available (probably for the last time) at $30. A more basic, but quite fresh and lively bottle, is the Henri Bourgeois 2006 Grande Réserve ($22). Also recommended are the biodynamic Sancerres from Domaine Vacheron; their 2006 vintage sells for $30.
Visiting with Alphonse Mellot, I learned that he had recently acquired vineyard property in the Coteaux Charitois. Look for a pair of wines named “Les Pénitents” — one a chardonnay, the other a pinot noir. As with Bourgeois, the classic Mellot wines are his Sancerres, especially La Moussière.
If you love Sancerre but not the prices, turn to wines from neighboring Quincy (pronounced CAN-see). Henri Bourgeois makes a delicious 2006 Haute Victoire Quincy ($17). Other excellent wines made of pure sauvignon blanc come from Menetou-Salon, just a bit south and west of Sancerre. It is well represented by the wines of Domaine Henry Pellé and Domaine de Chatenoy. Vines grow at the same altitude and in the same type of ancient seabed soils as its better-known neighbor, yet the wines sell at a discount.
Though not as racy as Sancerre, these sauvignons have a pleasing sour candy component, as if a bit of Vouvray had been blended in (it has not). Both 2006 and 2007 produced delicious wines at these properties. Moving farther afield, other sauvignons from the broader Touraine appellation can also be quite good. Domaine Chainier makes several, including one from Chateau de Pocé that is adjacent to Mick Jagger’s Loire estate. Satisfaction guaranteed.
Vouvray deserves a column — a book really — all by itself. Nowhere else in the world does the chenin blanc grape produce such a delicious range of wines, from sparkling to dry to decadently sweet. But if you want the thrill of what I believe to be the world’s greatest dry chenin blanc — a wine that will amaze you with its grace, elegance and longevity, you must look to Savennières.
Domaine du Closel’s Clos du Papillon bottling offers somewhat musky, lightly honeyed scents and flavors of candied fruits. Better still are its Les Caillardières bottlings, bringing in nuances of white flowers, tea, lemon oil and citrus rind.
A star on the rise is Damien Laureau, whose two cuvées offer that magic combination of textbook winemaking and extreme value. I will be looking to purchase both the 2005 Les Genets and the 2005 Bel Ouvrage for my own cellar. The first, grown on sandy soil, offers a lovely mix of honey, clover, spice, herb and juicy citrus. The second, grown on rocky soil, is more tightly focused, with scents of beeswax, lemon peel, tea and honey. This is the one to age.
Savennières from Roches aux Moines come in multiple vintages dating back a decade or more, and sell for quite reasonable prices. Have your wine seller contact the importer (Millésime) for complete details.
No wine column can do more than point you in certain directions when the topic is as vast and as varied as the Loire. But by focusing on a few key appellations and producers, you can make your own discoveries.     Last but certainly not least, know that some importers, particularly Joe Dressner and Jon-David Headrick, are extremely well-versed in the region. Either of their names on the back label is a sure sign of quality.

Next week:  Loire reds.

Pick of the week
Henri Bourgeois 2006 Petit Bourgeois, $11.
This is a clean, baseline, everyday sauvignon that brings with it the sharp, grassy flavors of the Loire. You won’t find the crystalline layers of mineral, nor the deluxe racy acids of the higher-priced wines, but there is no sugar, no cheap oak and nothing interfering with the honest flavors of the grape. Grab some oysters and go!

Paul Gregutt
Wine adviser
Q. I am contacting you in order to ask if you remember an article you had previously written explaining how to conduct a private collection wine sale (outlining correct procedures/forms in accordance with Washington State Liquor Board). It was well written, in a clear, concise manner, and I have been trying to locate this article to no avail. Thank you for your consideration.
A. To get an update, I contacted the WSLCB and got this helpful reply. I believe this is the information you are looking for.
Here’s the Washington State Liquor Control Board Accommodatino Sale Process:
1. The seller of the alcoholic beverages finds a buyer. The seller cannot be a liquor licensee.
2. The seller and buyer agree upon a price.
3. The buyer writes a cover letter explaining the transaction, listing how much alcoholic beverages is to be purchased and for what cost. The buyer must state that the product has been inspected and is satisfied with the quality. The letter must also include the seller’s Social
Security number (needed to process the check).
4. The buyer sends the cover letter along with a check for the agreed upon price to Liquor Purchasing, Washington State Liquor Control Board, P.O. Box 43096, Olympia, WA 98504-3096.
5. A fee of $25 or 1 percent, whichever is greater, will be deducted from the check and the Liquor Control Board will send the remainder of the payment to the seller.
6. Once the seller receives the check from the Liquor Control Board, the seller can release the alcoholic beverages to the buyer.
7. The alcoholic beverages can only be sold and bought in Washington state.
8. There is no limit on the quantity.
For further questions on the process, please contact Meagan Renick at 360-664-1759.

By Paul Gregutt
Wine adviser

For some years now, savvy wine buyers seeking a taste of the Rhone at un-Rhonish prices have looked to the rather obscure appellations that ring the French Mediterranean coast from Nice to Banyuls.
Wines from the Côteaux du Languedoc, Roussillon, Corbières, Minervois, Costières de Nîmes, Côtes du Ventoux and others have turned up a wealth of affordable reds, principally blends of grenache, mourvèdre, carignan and syrah, and often from old vines. And of course there are the lesser appellations of the Côtes du Rhone itself, such as Vacqueyras, that also have, until now, dodged the pricing inflation that has made wines such as Chateauneuf-du-Pape unaffordable for every day consumption.
Given the shrinking dollar and a host of other factors, the good times may not continue to “rouler” much longer. Wines from the 2002 and 2003 vintages were all made under varying, but sub-par, weather conditions, and should generally be avoided. In 2004 conditions were excellent, good in 2005 and rather average in 2006. Advice from here is stock up on the 2004s and 2005s.
In recent years an effort to overcome a reputation for making generic, cheap wine has led many ambitious producers to age their wines in expensive new oak, which not only drives up prices, but obliterates terroir. Southern France remains an incredibly diverse and exciting region for discovering unique and (sometimes) affordable wines, but it’s a crowded jungle. I suggest that you look for either brands or importers that you know and trust. Otherwise, it’s buyer beware.
Hecht & Bannier is a small négociant-éleveur dedicated to wines from Languedoc and Roussillon. These are rather hard and austere wines that will require (and reward) decanting, but they have clearly been made and assembled with care.
“We want our wines to be a reliable passport to the AOC Languedoc and Roussillon areas for wine-lovers,” Gregory Hecht explains. Vinum Imports represents Hecht & Bannier in the Seattle area. I hope to see many more of their wines in the future.
I especially enjoyed the Hecht & Bannier 2004 Minervois ($21). This is mostly syrah with a bit of grenache added. It’s a bright and peppery wine that offers concentrated red fruits, Provencal herbs, black pepper and truffle salt highlights. Its tannins are smooth but a little chalky, lending some definition and texture to the finish.
Almost as good is Hecht & Bannier’s 2005 Côtes du Roussillon Villages ($26).  Tight and spicy, this brings sleek cranberry and red currant fruit flavors to the table. It’s peppery and sharp, and certainly needs airing out and/or additional bottle age.
Tim Shannon started First Crush Wines a couple of years ago, with a particular interest in southern French wines based on carignan and mourvèdre. “I’m looking for things that are not the typical blend,” he explains. “There’s a lot of great Côtes du Rhone out there; you need to have a different bugle to blow.”
Shannon favors small producers, non-interventionist winemaking and finished wines of just 13 or 13.5 percent alcohol. He mentions his early training as a mountain and avalanche guide as a helpful influence.
“It’s all about angle, aspect and elevation — where’s my sun? You need to understand what weather will spin out in the spot you’re standing in. There is a connection to wine. This is what fruit I want, where I want to be.”
Mas Basile, in the Costières de Nîmes appellation, is one of his favored producers. Their affordably priced whites and reds are augmented by a delightful 2006 Syrah Grenache Rosé ($10). It’s an elegant wine, supple and lively in the mouth, with gentle hints of rose petals and strawberry candy.
Also recommended from First Crush:

•     Mas Basile 2006 Grenache Roussanne White ($13). This roussanne/grenache blanc blend shows bracing minerality, subtle textures and lovely impressions of white pepper and herb.
•     Mas Basile 2005 Syrah Grenache ($14). Concrete fermented (no oak), this fragrant wine offers bright raspberry scents over base flavors of wet clay and earth. It’s bone dry, austere but thrilling, with a hint of garrigue spice.
•     Mas Basile 2004 Reserve Syrah ($25). Handpicked from 50-year-old syrah vines, this mixes herb and spice scents with lifted, minty notes, and a whiff of cedary cigar box. Substantial, serious, young and ageworthy, it could be cellared for up to a decade.

Most unusual is the Chateau Haut-Musiel 2004 “Signargues” Côtes du Rhone Villages ($15) — 80 percent carignan and 20 percent syrah, yet labeled a Côtes du Rhone Villages. Produced from 45- to-90-year-old vines, it tastes authentically Old World. Think extract of berries poured over rock, with a healthy dose of barnyard.
Among the most widely available brands from southern France, I’ve often recommended the wines of Perrin. The new (2006) releases are now reaching the market, distributed by Noble. Best is the Rasteau ($23), a Côtes du Rhone Villages blend of 80 percent grenache and 20 percent syrah. It’s aromatic and peppery, with sappy berries, clay, earth and a suggestion of baking chocolate. I also enjoyed Perrin’s 2006 Vacqueyras Les Christins ($25), a tart, acidic wine with a pungent, grassy streak.

Picks of the week
Chateau de Nages 2005 Réserve White ($14)
Chateau de Nages 2004 Réserve Red ($14)
These lovely wines, from the Costières de Nîmes appellation, offer generous, fresh and juicy flavors. The white is grenache blanc and roussanne, the red grenache and syrah. Bright and fresh citrus flavors of lemon, lime and grapefruit, with some of the racy acidity of sauvignon blanc, characterize the white. Tight red fruits — cranberry, pomegranate, sour plum — and whiffs of smoked meat are set against nuances of herb, smoke and pepper in the red. (First Crush distributor)

By Paul Gregutt
Wine adviser

This Valentine’s day, let’s forget the hearts and flowers. How about jazzing up life with a bottle of Holy Cow?
Here’s the back story. In 2006 K Vintners’ Charles Smith — he of the wild frizzy hair and otherworldly syrahs — entered into a partnership with Precept Brands to produce and market his supremely successful house wines named, you guessed it, House Wine.
House Wine was designed as an everyday wine at an everyday price, but he has more wine ideas sprouting like spring flowers in his agile brain.
“Once I had partnered with Precept,” the voluble Smith said told me, “I found myself in a vacuum, and I wanted to do more creative things. I always wanted to do Riesling; in the right soils it makes the greatest wines in the world. And in the old days it was what started Washington. So I came up with Kungfu Girl and I thought, ‘This is just the tip of the iceberg.’ The iceberg turned out to be Charles Smith Wines.”
Charles Smith Wines is what Smith has dubbed his “modernist project.” His goals are clearly stated, and remarkably humble.
“I thought there should be something in the sweet spot; regionally focused and vineyard driven. Instead of building these wines on winemaking, extraction, oak and extended aging, they’re wines that are grown in the vineyard and put in the bottle intact. They taste like the varietal, and they taste like where they came from.”
The first wine to be released under the Charles Smith label was last summer’s Kungfu Girl Riesling, which was my featured Pick of the Week on July 4. Now we’re seeing the follow-up wines, which together will create a complete modernist portfolio.
So, why Holy Cow? “I always liked those cattle crossing signs,” says Smith. “I wanted something angular and modern, like the sherry signs in Spain. But my cow has the smallest head and legs; it’s like modern art. Holy Cow also refers to the sacred cows of India; it’s not one-dimensional kitsch. The back label has a branding iron logo — HC on a rocker base. So it’s the rocking Holy Cow brand; which makes it more complex for a rock-and-roller like me.”
The 2006 Holy Cow Chardonnay ($12) is a full, fresh, medium-bodied wine that shows good structure and length. It has no oak and no residual sugar, just plenty of fruit and clean highlights of lime and quinine.
Its companion, the 2006 Holy Cow Merlot ($12) features ripe cherry fruit accented with baking spices, cut tobacco and a hint of earthiness. Both wines feature a friendly black-and-white cow on the label, with a halo over its head. Put them side-by-side and you’ll see that the two cows are facing in opposite directions. They make a great, easy-to-spot display.
Coming on March 1 will be the next addition to the Charles Smith lineup, the 2006 Boom Boom Syrah ($15). Remember those big, black bombs that were often featured in the old Road Runner cartoons? That’s the Boom Boom front label. The back label features — what else? — a lit match.
None of this would be worth more than a giggle if the wines weren’t so good. The syrah delivers plenty snap and sizzle; blueberry and boysenberry fruit underscored with layers of carefully managed vanilla, tobacco and silky tannins.
With these new releases, says Smith, he is attempting to pin down the essence of Washington grapes — the brightness of the fruit, the immediate accessibility of the wines — while retaining length and detail. Most inexpensive wines, if they are any good at all, are front-loaded with formulaic flavors of vanilla and sweet jam. These offer a more natural expression of flavors that come from the vineyard itself.
Other new Charles Smith wines are coming soon, priced a bit higher. A Chateau Smith Cabernet Sauvignon (untasted) will be followed by three different syrahs, all produced from the same Royal Slope vineyard and vintage. Named Heart, Skull and Old Bones, they differ only in the technical details of the winemaking.
We tasted the Old Bones, a blend of the Heart and the Skull, aged in brand new 500-liter puncheons. It is sure to become a cult wine, as it is unbelievably dark, saturated and concentrated. You literally can’t see through it; it’s black to the rim. Still young, hot and volatile, it is for those who love high-end, super-extracted syrah, and don’t cringe at high alcohol content.
All the Charles Smith wines are labeled Washington state rather than using the more standard Columbia Valley appellation. “Washington is not a generic term,” explains Smith, “and that’s a great thing. These wines typify the best that Washington has to offer.”

Pick of the Week
Bodegas Ateca 2006 Garnacha de Fuego “Old Vines,” $8.
Importer Jorge Ordonez represents a full range of Spanish wines, from low end to high. The red wines, in particular, hold largely to a certain style — very appealing to many consumers — that emphasizes flavors of fruit jam, licorice and tobacco. In the pricier bottles, it can lead to wines that are a bit over the top, but this $8, old vine garnacha (grenache) offers bright cranberry and raspberry fruit, along with some of the usual tobacco/licorice notes. There is also a $15 Bodegas Ateca bottling with similar, but more concentrated flavors.

Paul Gregutt
Wine adviser 

    Q. On Christmas eve my husband was uncorking a nice bottle of cabernet. As he took the cork out the wine exploded up all over the ceiling and cupboards. This has never happened to us before and we were wondering what would cause this as we had just purchased an entire case of this wine.
A. Exploding cabernet you say! That’s not the sort of holiday surprise you were hoping for, I’m sure. I hope that no actual explosion (of glass) occurred. It sounds from your note as if the wine exploded out of the top, much as a bottle of bubbly will do if it is shaken up, rather than the actual bottle itself.
If this was a bottle of still red wine, as I assume it was, the only explanation I can come up with is that it underwent an accidental refermentation in the bottle. This would cause a buildup of carbon dioxide and would unleash an explosion of wine when the cork was pulled. It’s not out of the question, if that is in fact what happened, that the rest of the bottles in your case of wine could be subject to the same problem. Worse yet, if the refermentation continues, the actual glass could explode, and that could be dangerous. I would suggest you return the wines to the shop where they were purchased and ask for a refund. In any event, be very careful when handling them until the actual cause of the problem has been determined.

By Paul Gregutt
Wine adviser

Some newsworthy tidbits caught my eye this week. Tie them together and they lead us down a wine trail worth following.
On  www.winejudging.com, I found posted the results of one of the country’s largest competitions. This year, 4,235 wines were entered by 1,500 wineries. As is always the case there were beaucoup medals awarded — that’s part of the game. So let’s go straight to the top: the Sweepstake Awards, given in five different categories. These are the best of the best, and only seven wines out of the 4,235 earned one. One of the seven was Barnard Griffin’s 2007 Rosé of Sangiovese.
Sincere congratulations to winemaker Rob Griffin. This wine, by the way, will be released officially in a few weeks, and I wouldn’t wait too long to snap it up. But isn’t it interesting that it was a bone dry rosé of Sangiovese — an Italian grape that is the backbone of Chianti and other Tuscan wines, but remains an obscure footnote in America — that brought unanimous praise from the judges?
Tidbit No. 2:  I’ve become a regular reader of Michael Veseth’s blog (mvgrapeexpectations.blogspot.com/). Veseth, who is professor of International Political Economy at the University of Puget Sound, reported in his Jan. 11 entry on a study that analyzed 18 years of “Top 100” lists published by the Wine Spectator. The conclusion is that wines are getting both better and cheaper.
Veseth believes that globalization, which ties together grapes, winemakers and corporations from around the world, is the reason. “Globalization,” he writes, “has benefited American wine drinkers, who have a broader choice of quality wines at lower prices.”
This study dovetailed nicely with recent market research from The Nielsen Company, reported in the Wine Business Monthly. Although chardonnay, merlot and cabernet sauvignon remain the “Big Three” varietals in terms of both case and dollar sales, there is a broadening of consumer interest in exploring a much wider variety of wines from around the world.
In fourth place and quickly rising among the most popular varietal wines is pinot grigio, propelled especially by Italian versions of the wine. Italy is just about to pass Australia as the largest import category.
So, put all the pieces together and you see the pattern. Interest in Italian varietals. Even more interest in actual wines from Italy. And higher quality at a lower cost, even as consumers are willing to spend more on their everyday wines in order to enjoy affordable luxury.
This is good news, consumers! Despite all the weeping and wailing about the falling dollar, many excellent Italian wines remain quite affordable. If you are willing to put on your game face and go exploring, leaving behind the familiar comforts of chardonnay, merlot and cabernet sauvignon, there are wonderful discoveries to be made. Here are some of my favorites.

From importer/distributor Grape Expectations
Guido Mazzarello 2006 Cortese Dell’Alto Monferrato, $9. This fresh, bright and lively white wine wraps its bone dry flavors in a delicate mix of lemon and almond. Great with pasta and clams.
Guido Mazzarello 2006 Barbera Del Monferrato, $9. The cortese’s red wine partner is this snappy barbera, with flavors of plum and pie cherry, hints of sandalwood and caramel and some grainy cracker.
Sabbie 2005 Morellino di Scansano, $10. Mostly sangiovese and very well-made, showing flavors of plum, balsamic, soy and smoke. It’s smooth and soft, supple and open, with a lovely mouthfeel.
Alberese 2005 “Pellegrone” Morellino di Scansano, $13. This has somewhat mature flavors marked by tobacco and leather, wrapped around soft black cherry/plum fruit. It’s lighter and more detailed than the Sabbie, with less mass, but the tannins are buffed to a fine polish.
Primosic 2005 “Rebulla” Ribolla Gialla BRDA, $15. Rebulla is Slovenian for Ribolla (if that helps). Brda is the vowel-challenged town where this Slovenian white wine is made. It offers astonishing minerality and crispness, with strong almond pastry (marzipan) flavors. I could drink this all night long.
Primosic 2006 “Belvedere” Tocai Friulano Collio, $15. Belvedere is the vineyard. It’s a bit like a Pinot Bianco, but heftier, and more detailed. It’s got a palate-cleaning mix of slate and citrus skin, lemon, melon and white pepper.

From Dalla Terra Winery Direct (distributed by Noble)
Ajello 2006 Majus Bianco Grillo Catarratto, $10.
Ajello 2006 Majus Rosso Nero d’Avola, $10.
These are terrific wines. The Bianco, made from the catarratto and grillo grapes, is loaded with Sicilian citrus, stone fruits and soft buttery acids. The Rosso captures the black cherry, licorice, cut tobacco and black tea flavors of the nero d’Avola grape.
Fattoria La Valentina 2005 Montepulciano d’Abruzzo, $13. This is the sort of tart, earthy, moderately low alcohol Italian red that surprises you with its complexity. Let it breathe and out come aromas of mushroom, wet earth and white pepper. The red fruit flavors suggest currant and pomegranate, and it’s a wine you can enjoy throughout a simple meal with no headache in the morning.
Aia Vecchia 2005 Lagone, $15. This tart, acidic red wine from Bolgheri is built like a SuperTuscan but priced like a simple table red. It’s 60 percent merlot, 30 percent cabernet franc and 10 percent sangiovese, ripened to a sleek 14 percent alcohol. Structure is what this elegant wine is all about, juicy red fruits set upon polished tannins.

Pick of the week
Masciarelli 2004 Montepulciano d’Abruzzo, $8. This is what all cheap red wines wish they could be — light but fully flavorful, with nothing watery or thin about it. Pie cherries, hints of leather, soft tannins and just the right balancing acids make this an exceptional food wine.