PAUL GREGUTT
Wine adviser

Many a garage band has gotten their big break by signing with a small, niche record label. The niche label equivalent in the wine world is the small importer/distributor, who has a portfolio with a narrow but precise focus. In most markets in the country, these small operations are being muscled out by a handful of huge conglomerates. The big boys make their money selling booze, beer, water and jug wines, and through sheer volume they command the premium shelf space. The little guys have nowhere to go.
We have been spared this fate so far, explains Scott Cornelius, because of an unusual wrinkle in the Washington state wine laws. Cornelius is the Vice President of Sales for Noble Wines Ltd., a mid-sized, Seattle-based fine wine distributor. He attributes the relative health of the Seattle wine market to a number of things, but particularly to this state’s C.O.D. laws.
A small, start-up distributor can “float” their expenses by purchasing wines on credit, since the retailers to whom they sell must pay on delivery (C.O.D). This provides a sizeable financial cushion for everyone who distributes wine, but it’s a life-or-death proposition for the little guys.
Noble specializes in fine wines and is being challenged, says Cornelius, by both smaller and larger distributors. The little ones are staking out niche territory, while the bigger ones are trying to consolidate brands and control markets as in other parts of the country. Another difference here in Washington, according to Cornelius, is that liquor sales are still sold exclusively by the state Liquor Control Board.
“The consolidation you are seeing in other markets from acquisitions has been muted, thus far, in this market,” he concludes.
What all this means for you as a consumer is that you have more wine choices on your retailer’s shelves than almost anywhere in the world. There are roughly 1,000 wineries right in the Pacific Northwest eager to sell to you, and several thousand more in California. On top of that, wines from all over the world are being brought in by importers and distributors with an interest in assembling quality niche portfolios.
Yes, they need to make a living, but they are focused primarily on establishing a reputation for their palates. It’s a win-win situation, and as a result, notes Cornelius, “you’re seeing a lot more varied and different wines in the grocery stores, not just in the wine shops. Buyers have eclectic interests, and more and more groceries are putting designated wine stewards in their stores.”

What’s hot right now? Cornelius singles out an “incredible surge” in the sales of Washington wines, and ongoing interest in Italian wines, which are becoming richer and riper thanks to a series of extra warm vintages.
Despite the weak dollar, there are some astonishing values in European wines coming into the market, from importers such as Robert Kacher, Dalla Terra and Classical Wines.
Robert Kacher Selections is now represented in the Northwest by Cyril Frechier. He is particularly excited about the wines he’s bringing in this fall, and with good reason. We tasted through a lineup of delicious French white wines, each one a beautifully defined, well-structured representation of its grape and place.These are wines you’ll want to try.
From the Rhone: Brunel 2006 Côtes du Rhône “Becassonne” Blanc ($14).
From Burgundy: Manciat Poncet 2005 Macon-Charnay “Les Chênes” ($15).
From Bordeaux: Gaubert 2004 “Benjamin Blanc” A.O.C. Graves ($15).
From the Loire: Portier 2005 Quincy ($18).
From Alsace: Ehrhart 2004 “Vieilles Vignes” (organic) Riesling ($18).

Among Kacher Selections’ red wines I especially liked one from the Costières de Nîmes region in the south of France: Montpezat 2005 Palombières, $15, a lush blend of grenache and mourvèdre. The Cantarelles 2005 Syrah de Faye, $9, delivers rugged, leathery flavor. Better still is Amourier’s Vin de Pays de Vaucluse, $11, a mongrel blend of grenache, syrah and merlot. All of these wines may be ordered from Noble through your chosen retailer.
Dalla Terra represents a tidy group of family-owned, Italian wineries, including such marquee names as Avignonesi, Coltibuono, Alois Legeder and Marco Felluga. The 2006 white wines from Legeder — Pinot Bianco, Pinot Grigio and Chardonnay ($13-$15) — are immaculate, un-oaked, as crystal clear as mountain spring water, and terrifically refreshing. Ditto Marco Felluga’s 2006 Pinot Grigio Mongris ($16) — a wine so textured it’s almost creamy, it makes most Italian PG’s seem vapid by comparison.
From Tuscany, I enjoyed Avignonesi’s light and elegant 2005 Rosso di Montepulciano ($14), which sells for one-quarter the price of the winery’s reserve, yet offers similar pleasures. Coltibuono’s 2005 Cetamura Chianti ($10) is a lovely way to ease into the red wines of autumn. Better still, spring for their 2005 “RS” Chianti Classico ($15) and you’ll find the whiffs of smoke and tobacco that only Classico can offer, often at a much higher cost.
If it’s earthy, rustic power you seek, grab the Li Veli 2005 “Orion” Primativo or the rich, roasted Li Veli 2004 Passamante Salento (both $10). These wines of Puglia will have you reaching for your boar-hunting gear.
Classical Wines is a Seattle-based importer specializing in terroir-driven wines from Spain and Germany. Both countries are bursting with great wines these days, at all price levels. My quick run through the portfolio turned up these winners:
From the Mosel: C.H. Berres 2005 “Impulse” Riesling ($15)
From the Pfalz: Dr. Bürklin-Wolf 2006 (biodynamic) Riesling Estate ($17)
From the Rheingau: Georg Breuer 2006 “Charm” Riesling ($18)
From the Saar: Othegraven 2005 “Maria v. O” Riesling ($19)
From Jumilla: Carchelo 2006 Monastrell ($9)
From Catalunya: Mas Marçal Tinto 2005 ($9)
From El Bierzo: Baltos Mencia 2005 ($16)

Pick of the week
Viña Gormaz 2006 Tempranillo, $10. Bodegas Gormaz is a former co-op in the prestigious Ribera del Duero wine region, and this remarkable tempranillo is produced from 50-plus-year-old, ungrafted vines. Unoaked, dense and wild, it delivers mouth-filling berry and currant flavors supported by naturally tangy acids and supple hints of mineral. The 2005 version got a rave review in Robert Parker’s Wine Advocate; this is a worthy follow-up.

Paul Gregutt, author of “Washington Wines and Wineries: The Essential Guide,” can be reached at wine@paulgregutt.com.